Photograph Gallery Stage 33 Over Phawhope to Langholm : Walking Englishman's 1000 Mile Walk

Photograph Gallery Stage 33 Over Phawhope to Langholm

Posted by Mike on Friday, September 2, 2011 · Leave a Comment

Photograph Gallery Stage 33 Over Phawhope to Langholm, Saturday 25th June 2011

The Story:

A monster of a walk today. I had intended to walk to Eskdalemuir but having arrived at noon and finding no accommodation I decided to push on and complete Sundays leg too. The weather made my mind up for me, it drizzled all morning and poured all afternoon. I didn’t fancy a wild camp in that so I secured a second nights accommodation in the Crown Hotel in Langholm and pushed on with the incentive of a day off to rest my legs and feet and also do my laundry.

I slept reasonably well in the excellent bothy in Over Phawhope, woke at just before six, looked out to see miserable weather, made breakfast, packed the rucksack and after leaving the bothy as I found it I made tracks just after 7.00am. The bothy sits quite high at nearly 400m but my start took me higher still up a forest track that ended abruptly after about a half mile. From its end I plotted a route intersecting Hopetoun Craig and Ettrick Pen and once over my highest point I followed a burn which took me into Eskdalemuir Forest. I didn’t see much on top because I was in low cloud but with my reliable Memory Map Adventurer 3500 to guide me I made a true course through the clag. In the forest I found a good track and followed it for five miles past thousands and thousands of spruce. With not much else to look at I made good progress through Eskdalemuir Forest and was out before 10.00am. Then I followed the road south toward Eskdalemuir but before I reached the village I took time out to take a mid morning break in a Buddist tea shop at the Samye-Ling Tibetan Centre. I am so pleased I did. Before I went for tea and a bite to eat I wandered round the grounds. People I passed smiled and put their hands together to greet me. I said hello, they just kept their smiles and bowed. How lovely and then at the tea shop I bought a mug of tea, a cheese and onion pasty, a croissant and a soft drink. All for four pounds, excellent value. If you are ever passing, call in.

After my good break at Samye-Ling I walked the mile to Eskdalemuir, a spread out village of houses and cottages but no accommodation. I wasn’t disappointed, it was only noon and I didn’t want to stop. At a road junction, having done 10 good miles without a problem I saw the roadsign. Langholm 13. Could I? Should I? The drizzle had been constant and continued on. That made my mind up, I’m going for it. A few phone calls later and my angel Lil phoned to say I was booked in to my Sunday accommodation for an earlier night. Great, now I have just got to get there. Despite walking on a road it was deathly quiet, cars were an exception not a rule. I practically had it to myself. The scenery, when the weather allowed was lovely, trees and fields so green. The road undulated all the way, keeping my legs occupied. I was in good spirits, legs and feet ok but 13 miles on road after 10 eventually tells. At Enzieholm I reached a junction and I expected the sign to say Langholm 6. It said Langholm 8. First curse. From then on my feet started to overheat but I persevered on through Telford (with a wonderful monument to Thomas Telford) and Benpath. Then after an age and several up and downs I reached another sign at Burnfoot. Surely Langholm 3? No, it said Langholm 4. Second curse, louder this time. Like a grand prix driver on wet tyres I headed for puddles. My feet were on boil and I was caused to slow down to get home without blistering badly. After an interminable time I saw Langholm, cried joy and staggered into town. The relief.

Now four hours on I have washed, rested and eaten. I feel ecstatic to have a day off. During it I shall reflect on my Scotland journey. In seven miles I will be in England.

The Photographs: