Photograph Gallery Stage 32 St Mary’s Loch to Over Phawhope
Photograph Gallery Stage 32 St Mary’s Loch to Over Phawhope, Friday 24th June 2011
The Story:
It would take a lot to beat yesterdays stunner and while this continuation through the southern uplands was excellent it couldn’t quite match the breathtaking heights and stunning views of its predecessor. Yet it came close.
The start from Tibbie Shiels Inn saw me walk south and away from St Mary’s Loch alongside the east bank of its neighbouring water, Loch of the Lowes. After a hundred yards at the water side I started to climb the west flank of Peat Hill. As I ascended I had to keep stopping, not because of fatigue but because the views north back to St Mary’s Loch, south to Riskinhope and east to the hills were all brilliant. It was a wonderful start to the day and what is more, the sun was out. I could scarcely believe it. After a week of dismal weather, yesterday excepted, I was walking in sunshine and in wonderful walking country. Soon I turned southeast to join the Southern Upland Way at Pikestone Rig. What followed was a joyous two miles of high level walking past the east flanks of Peniestone Knowe and Scabcleuch Hill before ascending 150 metres to Scabcleuch. I had done four miles walking without noticing the time go by, so enthralled was I with the walk and the views it provided. On the descent I did meet one chap who was walking the entire Southern Upland Way. He mentioned that in over a week he had met only three other walkers. I find it incredible that such a wonderful walk is so under used, most likely caused by a lack of accommodation infrastructure. Still the peace and quite of the way gives it a unique character so why change it?
Apart from that meeting I was all alone during my day and from Scabcleuch the structure of my day journey on the Southern Upland Way changed completely. No high passes and hill trails now, I was following a road all the way to its end five miles southwest. It was pleasant enough, there was practically no traffic; four vehicles in the whole five miles. I was walking up a lovely valley with a stream constantly by my left hand side. I passed peaceful cottages and farms with quaint names. In order they were Cossarshill, Brockhoperig, Shorthope, Crook Cottage, Over Kirkhope, Nether Phawhope, Broadgairhill all occupied and finally Potburn at the head of the valley which was boarded up. Apart from the dwellings birds often caught my attention as they called out as I approached, flew to a fence wire or telegraph pole wire, all keeping just ahead of me to ascertain my attention was on them for about 30 – 40 metres until they were satisfied I was clear of their brood. It was a lovely way to pass the time. The weather behaved as well, the odd spot of rain from a rogue cloud but nothing significant to dampen my day. At unoccupied Potburn the road terminated and I followed a track for a further quarter mile before concluding my walk at Over Phawhope Bothy. Although I will have left the bothy by the time you read this I write this report from there, sat on the ‘seat of poetry’. The bothy provided me with shelter, warmth (I made a fire in the stove, dried my gear and made dinner) and a bed. It is only eight in the evening but I go to it soon. I have had one great day after another and want to start early in the hope of a third. I am enjoying myself again.
The Photographs:
Thankfully the stone was dry
The north end of Loch of the Lowes
The south end of Loch of the Lowes
Loch of the Lowes
Chapelhope at the southern end of Loch of the Lowes
On the Southern Upland Way at Peniestone Knowe
Descending from the Southern Upland Way toward Ettrick
Ettrick, birthplace of James Hogg, poet and novelist
This little chap kept flying just ahead of me for quite a while
Another one who kept me strung along
Ettrick Water
Phawhope Burn at Nether Phawhope
Potburn
Over Phawhope Bothy
Inside the bothy
Laundry