Photograph Gallery Stage 31 Drumelzier to St Mary’s Loch : Walking Englishman's 1000 Mile Walk

Photograph Gallery Stage 31 Drumelzier to St Mary’s Loch

Posted by Mike on Friday, September 2, 2011 · Leave a Comment

Photograph Gallery Stage 31 Drumelzier to St Mary’s Loch, Thursday 23rd June 2011

The Story:

Todays walk was quite brilliant, beginning with a crossing of the Scottish southern uplands which I really enjoyed. After the upland crossing I made a five mile journey on quiet roads to arrive at the Tibbie Shiels Inn which sits in a divine location between Loch of the Lowes and St Mary’s Loch. I am there now, very satisfied with the whole day.

I started from Drumelzier after being dropped off by Alan who wished me all the best on my walk. After shaking his hand I was on my way on a track past some cottages and toward the hills. I was immediately spurred by the good quality of the track which took me on a gradual ascent past Finglen Rig toward Den Knowes. Soon the views were unfolding for me, particularly as I looked back to Drumelzier and Broughton, places I walked yesterday. Ahead of me the mass of hills was ever changing shape with Drumelzier Law always prominent to my right. The rounded shape of the hills are gentle curves immediately made me think of the Howgill Fells of northern England. Even the walking on soft short grass heightened the similarity. I was taking it easy, thinking of my hips, knees and feet but they were behaving and I made steady ascent. I was surprised at the speed I was going, not too fast but not stopping, making ground and altitude all the time. Before I expected I reached Den Knowes Head having climbed 450 metres without stress. I felt great and after taking a drink I pressed on to make the summit of Pykestone Hill. While on the ascent I kept making short stops to look all around. Behind I could see Biggar and the whole length of the walk I did yesterday. To the right of the mass of Pykestone Hill I could now see Broad Law and Dollar Law which was my next objective. Just the small matter of touching the trigpoint first which I did with euphoria. I felt really great, my body was behaving remarkably well, clearly pleased to be back at home in the hills after the necessary passage through Glasgow and its environs last weekend.

From Pykestone Hill, elevation 737 metres I followed the Thieves Road due south to Long Grain Knowe and then to Newholm Cairns Hill where I stopped for lunch. For the first time in over two weeks I was feeling really great, my spirits revived by walking without the accompanyment of pain. I was at home on the hills and was in my element. I took pleasure in eating lunch, taking refreshment and taking in the views. All doubts I had of continuing my journey all the way to Lizard Point were subsiding fast and after my break it was with vigour that I continued my wonderful high level walk to Dollar Law. One thing still eluded me though, I could not yet see over the pass to the south and my goal for the day. I did not have to wait long. After a steady climb for fifteen minutes all was revealed. At the head of the pass between Dollar Law and Fifescar Knowe all opened out in front of me. The weather had been good all the way, visibility was great and now I could see mountains and hills everywhere. Surely I could see England too and the mountains of the northern Lake District. I stood in awe at the view, miles and miles of high ground. Another WOW moment had presented itself. Absolutely amazed at the view I stood for ages.

From a wonderful ascent on great tracks with interest throughout and brilliant views always I started a slow descent to Notman Law and then to Water Head. Soon I saw Megget Reservoir below me and set it as a target. Having run out of the useful tracks I used Craigierig Burn as my access and started negotiating my way down the watercourse. Soon after my good temper turned to tantrum. The reason? The weather. Quickly, from enjoying wonderful weather the sky darkened and heavy rain quickly hit. Why spoil my fantastic walk? Why? I was annoyed at the sudden change and I felt obliged to shout out expletives. Realising I could change nothing I donned the wet gear, scowled, and then continued on. With head down under my mobile wet weather canopy I hurried to Craigierig and then started following the road past Megget Reservoir toward Cappercleuch. As I walked the rain relented then came back as hailstones. I wasn’t bothered any more, it couldn’t spoil my day, I wouldn’t let it and after Cappercleuch the sun came back out to let me celebrate my approach to the Tibbie Shiels Inn, my home for the night. Walking alongside St Mary’s Loch to the inn at the head of Loch of the Lowes in early evening sun was a fitting end to a marvellous walk; rain dismissed as a mere inconvenience.

Tibbie Shiels Inn sits in paradise, today I walked in paradise. That is how I feel now. The southern uplands are brilliant. After today and even after I complete them on this walk I shall come again. Today has sorted that, a truly brilliant day.

The Photographs: