Photograph Gallery Stage 22 Glencoe Ski Resort to Auchtertyre
Photograph Gallery Stage 22 Glencoe Ski Resort to Auchtertyre, Tuesday 14th June 2011
The Story:
As the song goes ‘just a perfect day’. I walked just short of twenty miles in super weather conditions with excellent views of mountains in every direction and not even a sight of the notorious Scottish midge. It was ideal in every respect.
Like every morning of the last seven days I stepped out of bed expecting a sore response from my right foot, only this time it didn’t react. I stood normally and were it not for cautious relief I could have danced. Instead I prepared for the day in the normal fashion, had breakfast and then was driven to Glencoe by my charming wife Lil who has been a godsend for the last four days by nursing my foot through the worse and encouraging me on through the recovery. I would be low on morale and further behind my 1000 mile schedule without her. With her at my side for another few days yet I feel confident on catch up. It starts today.
Lil dropped my off at yesterdays terminus; Glencoe Ski Resort. The morning was glorious with the sun already melting the cloud filter and breaking through. A slight breeze provided a suitable cooler, neither hot nor cold. Before setting off I looked back to Buachaille Etive Mor with its rocky east face shining with thousands of natural mirrors throwing the sun back at me. It was magical. Reluctantly I turned to face south west and then started walking. “How far will I get today” I thought as I marched on. My immediate course was almost due south across Rannoch Moor and though the first couple of miles were an ascent it was hardly noticeable. The climb did keep the distant views from me though. “What lies ahead?” As I came to equal latitude with Creag an Fhirich I found out and WOW. From the restricted view on the slight climb my world opened out spectacularly.
Rannoch Moor is vast. I could see that now and predominant in my eyeline were Stob a Choire Odhair and Beinn Toaig in the region known as Black Mount. Between them and me was a huge open tract of land. A pleasant descent on a very good track beckoned me on and I made good time when walking which was lost when I stopped to chat with West Highland Way walkers making their way toward Fort William. Amongst them were Derek and Pat, a couple from Glasgow now living in Nottingham, an Australian couple making their way to John O’Groats and two German young ladies on a three day hike. All were pleasant meetings, all interesting and all made in the best scenery. There were more meetings too, we just never passed details, just courtesies.
With my confident walking between encounters I was soon leaving the moor on a descent to Inveroran. One more lovely meeting was made on Victoria Bridge with Tom and Gail from Dundee. While chatting with them we were entertained by two low flying jets streaking over the moor. One of them seemed to be heading for a crash straight into the mountain of Beinn Udhaidh before turning sharply to the right and ascending. It was probably not as close as I thought. Soon after I said goodbye to Tom and Gail, walked past the Inveroran Hotel and then made a shocked ascent of Man Carraigh; I had been on gradual descent and level walking for the last six miles, I had forgot about climbs. It was neither long nor hard but the descent was awkward, particularly through a forest section to Bridge of Orchy. But reaching the bridge was an incentive. There is a hotel at Orchy. I met Lil there for lunch and interim feet treatment before tackling another stage. Today I was clawing back lost time by doing two in one.
And so I did. At Inveroran I had already completed one of my original stages and now, after lunch I was on my way to Tyndrum to complete the second. The transit between the two is through a vastness. Two mountains dominate, Beinn Dorain and Beinn Odhair. From the south Dorain is seen as a magnificent pyramid but as I walked sothwards on its western flank it was just a huge wall keeping me straight. Odhar appeared to be the shapely pyramid ahead of me. The walk along another miles gobbling old military road was excellent and in just over an hour after leaving Bridge of Orchy I was between the two monoliths at Gleann Achadh-innis Chailein. Here the mountains did a role reversal, Dorain assumed the pyramid characteristic and Odhar became the wall. In between, directly to my east was Beinn a Chaisteil which fit snugly between the two. The three seen together from the valley floor was some sight indeed. From the glen my final three miles to Tyndrum were a continuation of walking the old military road alongside Beinn Odhar to a pass between Beinn Bheag and Meall Bhuidhe. The ascent was gradual and manageable even after over 17 miles of walking and once over I descended with sight of Tyndrum below me. The village is not scenic but a haven for walkers with its shops, cafes and restaurant bars. I hastened through the village and walked a further mile and a bit to Auchtertyre where I made my stop for the day. I had walked just short of twenty miles through the wonderful Scottish highlands and I had walked with good feet under me. Welcome back feet, I do hope you remain with me on my journey. Farewell highlands, you have been hard work but utter inspiration. Tomorrow I leave you for Loch Lomond.
The Photographs:
The long delightful scenic track with Black Mount in the distance
River Ba at Ba Bridge
Lochan Mhic Pheadair Ruaid
The view from Drochaid Doire Mhic Laimh
This frog was being daring standing on the middle of the West Highland Way. I moved him on.
Woodland at Drochaid Easain Duibh
I have been grateful to the builders of the military roads
Abhainn Shira as seen from Victoria Bridge
Inveroran Bridge
Inveroran Hotel
Descending to Bridge of Orchy from Mam Carraigh
River Orchy and the twin peaks of Meall Beag
Posing at Bridge of Orchy
Looking back to Beinn Dorain
Crom Allt, just before Tyndrum
Wood carvings of the local wildlife at Tyndrum