Photograph Gallery Stage 18 Strone to Fort William
Photograph Gallery Stage 18 Strone to Fort William, Wednesday 8th June 2011
The Story:
This epic walk I have designed of over 1,000 miles from the northwest coast to southwest coast of Great Britain has many different stages with milestones I have mentally defined. Today I reached the first milestone of Fort William which means I have now completed my variation of the Cape Wrath Trail. In time I will write in detail of this toughest part of my journey. For now I will describe the final seven miles.
I didn’t sleep well in my wild camp tent, the heel on my right foot ached acutely from impact damage caused by the 40 miles walking over the last two days, 40 miles carrying a heavy 16 kilo backpack. I heard screeching owls during the night. I heard the dawn chorus which began just after 3.00am. I tried to sleep through it all but gave up at six to have breakfast. After porridge and tea it was half past and I closed my eyes for a minute. I woke three and a half hours later at 10.00am!
When I woke after such time I was so relieved to have dropped off. My pain had also subsided but I knew any weight on the foot would be chronic. So I rested further until noon then made myself a warm lunch before breaking camp. At 12.30 I resumed the Caledonian Canal Towpath toward Fort William. It was a painful resumption and every step taken took effort. As I was nearing the most populated place in northwest Scotland the crowds were out, many groups of walkers were on the path with me. Most I met expressed concern at my obvious woe. Some offered help which I generously declined. I was nearing my first milestone and I was determined to make it alone.
One huge motivation was the sight of Ben Nevis, its northern face dark and ghostly with ever changing mist and cloud creating a moving picture. It was an incredible sight to behold and drew me on and on to the edge of Fort William habitation at Neptune’s Staircase, a series of eight locks which raises boats 64 feet from sea level to the Caledonian Canal. At the staircase I watched one boat making its slow ascent up the locks. It was almost as slow as me.
After the interesting interlude at Neptune’s Staircase I entered the outskirts of Fort William. After all the grandeur of the northwest Highlands I was in the suburb of Caol and walking through a housing estate! At least there was a shop in the estate. I dived in for a sandwich, bag of crisps and a bottle of Orange juice to help me on my final approach to the centre of town. After Caol came another suburb Lochyside and then I crossed shoreside fields to yet another suburb, this one was Inverloch. At least this was the last one before I saw the imaginary chequered tape of my first milestone at Fort William Railway Station. The relief was immense. I had completed the Cape Wrath Trail solo and unaided. I know I have a long way to go and many more painful hurdles to overcome before the final milestone at the Lizard but I also know the hardest trail in the series I will connect with in my walk down the country is behind me. Now I will rest until I am ready for the next stage. I see the first sign of the West Highland Way right in front of me.
The Photographs:
Midday voyage
The Caledonian Canal widens near Torcastle
The Ben Nevis range
Neptune’s Staircase
The Narrows bring water from Loch Eil to Loch Linnhe
Woodland walking between Caol and Fort William