Photograph Gallery Stage 17 Invergarry to Strone : Walking Englishman's 1000 Mile Walk

Photograph Gallery Stage 17 Invergarry to Strone

Posted by Mike on Friday, August 26, 2011 · Leave a Comment

Photograph Gallery Stage 17 Invergarry to Strone, Tuesday 7th June 2011

The Story:

Today I entered the Great Glen on my final push toward Fort William, 25 miles away. I had no planned finishing point as accommodation could not be found; wild camping was to be the refuge at the end of the day.

Despite my interim goal of Fort William drawing closer and though there were no big climbs today it was with a hint of poignant loss when I set off into the Great Glen. The magnificent high mountains, the wide open spaces, the rugged landscape, the remoteness, the uniqueness and the character of the far north were now behind me and a memory rather than a living reality. The strength sapping trudging through peat bogs, the ascents and descents of untracked bealachs, the wading of gushing streams and rivers, the many lochans all with their own individual character, the knife edge approaches to classic waterfalls; what shall I do without them? I must admit there was a high sense of sadness when I thought back to all those events and more of the jaw dropping sights of the last three weeks. Luckily it was tempered by the imaginations of more great places and scenes to come on this wonderful walk. And one to look forward today was the thought of getting close to big Ben.

The first couple of miles following the road from Invergarry toward the Great Glen Way were unremarkable apart from the fact I passed a shop, the first shop I had passed in walking time in over 200 miles. I would have ran to it would my sore feet allowed it, I actually walked slowly but eagerly. Sandwich, Two Drinks, Bounty Bar, Newspaper and Coffee were purchased. Outside the shop I read the newspaper, ate the Bounty and drank the coffee before moving on.

Because I wanted to give my feet as much time to recover as possible it had been a ponderous start to the day. I had not left the hotel in Invergarry until after10.15am. The shop was just over a mile away and while I reached it at 11.00am it was close to noon before I left. I took my time over the coffee, reading the paper and sending a few notes. It had past noon by the time I left the road just after Laggan Swing Bridge. I had finally reached the Caledonian Canal and I was now on the Great Glen Way.

My first mile on the Great Glen Way was enchanting. I followed a woodland footpath with the Caledonian Canal close to my right hand side. After a rainy beginning to the walk the sun now glistened though the trees. It was like magic after the predominant roadside walking of the past two days. Gaps in the trees provided wonderful views of the canal and small marinas were complete with rather expensive yachts and leisure boats. I could sense I was walking into the opulence of the Great Glen Way after the hardship of the Cape Wrath Trail. This feeling was accentuated by the fact I was walking into people where before I had been walking alone.

The magic of the woodland walk lasted for the mile in took to follow the canal from Laggan Swing Bridge to Laggan Locks, at the east end of Loch Lochy. At the locks there was a pub boat. It was closed but had it been open I would not have ventured in. I was focused on walking and getting as close to Fort William as possible. I was in good spirits to progress despite my ailing feet which clearly needed rest but what followed next was demoralising.

I entered a forest which would take me on my course on the north side of Loch Lochy. The east side of the forest was South Laggan Forest. The west side was Clunes Forest. There was no differentiation between the two. The length of the forest trail was seven and one half miles. The scenery was the same throughout. High plantation pines were to my left, high plantation pines were to my right. On the odd occasion I saw clearing gaps to Loch Lochy on my left and the mountains of Sean Mheall, Meall Dubh, Meall ne Teanga and Meall Odhair on my right. Mainly though it was the monotonous sight of the uniform trees. If anyone reading this has done the Coast to Coast walk then think Ennerdale Forest in the Lake District. You will know what I mean. The monotony tired me physically and mentally. I was exhausted in body and mind when I finally dragged my ailing person out of the forest to the hamlet of Clunes. What was I to do. What I did I look back on as remarkable. Others may look back at it as foolhardy.

At Clunes I had walked twelve miles. After the 23 miles of yesterday my body, especially my feet were telling me enough was enough. Set up camp they were screaming to me. My mind had other ideas. Plenty of daylight left, struggle on old chap, struggle on, it kept telling me. Mind won over matter. Stubborness won over sense.

Has anyone read the Wainwright Guide to the outlying fells of the Lake District? In the guidebook Wainwright describes the smaller outlying fells as perfect for the older or geriatric man who has spent a lifetime on the big mountains but who cannot physically do them any more. In the guides he has a cartoon character oldie, doubled over and puffing and panting along the way. Look at those drawings, see that character, imagine his every effort for each step. That was me.

From Clunes I hauled myself along a single track road to Bunarkaig on the north western shore of a very picturesque spur of Loch Lochy. Advantage had been taken of the picture postcard setting by grand houses built on the lochside, all with resplendent and perfectly groomed gardens. No board for me here, go on traveller, go on. Trudge I went past the mini mansions to walk a weary two miles further to Gairlochy which thankfully saw the end of Loch Lochy, a water I had come to unfairly loathe. I just wanted an end to it, nothing personal. Should I camp here? It had been my plan but something very strange happened here. For some reason and I cannot explain how and why it happened, at this place of arrival I had all day aimed for my body came back to me. Albeit temporary my legs ached less, as did mg feet. I guess it was the euphoria of reaching the end of the loch and my designated target. It was surely an adrenline rush? Whatever happened it spurred me to go on. So I set off heading west along the Caledonian Canal Towpath with eight miles to Fort William. There was enough daylight. Surely not?

During my early start to the walk it had rained slightly. On joining the Great Glen Way the sun had shined Even through the monotonous forest it had remained dry with a mix of sunshine and cloudy overcast skies. Through Clunes and the labour of my slow walk to Gairlochy it had stayed dry too. One mile into my walk along the canal from Gairlochy my luck ran out. It started to rain. It was now eight in the evening. I donned my wet gear, put my head down and strode on. The rain got heavier and with the evening drawing on the skies got significantly darker. Still I strode on but then at just before nine in the evening I hit the wall. No Fort William tonight, I was four mile short of the outskirts. I had planned to do 12-14 miles. I did 18 miles.

I had to find a place to camp. Fortunately for me I was near a canal weir on the opposite bank to a small place called Strone. Near the weir a track led down the bank and below was a birch wood copse. I took myself to the copse, found a suitable pitch and set up camp. It was 9.15pm. I was exhausted so I immediately ate then slept. In-between the awakenings caused by the searing throbbing from my feet that is.

The Photographs:

Sign to the Great Glen Way at Invergarry