Photograph Gallery Stage 16 Cluanie Inn to Invergarry : Walking Englishman's 1000 Mile Walk

Photograph Gallery Stage 16 Cluanie Inn to Invergarry

Posted by Mike on Friday, August 26, 2011 · Leave a Comment

Photograph Gallery Stage 16 Cluanie Inn to Invergarry, Monday 6th June 2011

The Story:

I walked 23 miles today to make the link between the Cape Wrath Trail and the Great Glen Way. It took me ten hours and during the walk I saw more stunning sights. I also suffered more excruciating pain in my feet; 23 miles was overdoing it for a single stage of the walk, particularly when carrying a 16 kilo backpack and definitely when the feet are already suffering the rigour of a very hard walk. However I am not done, stages are much easier from now on and I will get to the Lizard in August. As for today…..

After the feet pounding of yesterday I woke, tried to stand up and fell back on the bed. Ouch, my right heel is tender was my though so after gingerly shuffling for a soak in the morning bath I applied second skin, donned two pairs of socks, put on the boots, lightly tied and stood up. That’s ok I though, comfortable to stand so off I went for breakfast in no discomfort. Afterwards, on settling the bill I chatted with a gentleman from York who was looking at a map of Scotland on the hotel reception wall. He was considering the Five Sisters of Kintail ridge and I wished him well in his challenge. He wished me well in mine. Then I was on my way.

The first eight miles of the stage were closely along the northern edge of Loch Claunie. Remarkably I was feeling good. Despite this being the last of the two roadside stages of the walk the verge was generously wide and even. I made the eight miles in three hours and was very pleased with myself when I reached the Scottish Power Hydro Dam at the eastern end of the loch. Things were good but I still had a long way to go so didn’t dwell on the milestone, I kept going. Another mile after passing the loch I turned off the road for had I continued following it I would have ended up in the east at Inverness. My goal for the day was Invergarry in the south. I was now following the road called the most beautiful road in Scotland with a famous viewpoint called the ‘Map of Scotland’ And so it proved to be.

The first four miles of the new road section did not promise much, a laborious haul uphill but there was a sublime compensation as I reached the west side of Loch Loyne. The loch was a very pretty sight itself but it was exemplified in beauty by the mountains to the west including Aonach air Chrith at a towering 1021 metres high. The satellites were also impressive and I took plenty of photographs to break up my ascent. And yet there were more thrills ahead. At the top of the pass were masses of tiny Chairn at the roadside. Hundreds of them, some of up to 100 small rocks but most of 10 or less. People must come here and make their own personal cairns. Why? Perhaps it is because of the view. I looked over to the most stupendous panorama of mountains in the distant west. All the fine peaks of the Knoydart were in view and it was magnificent. I reckon I could see the Five Sisters of Kintail now twenty miles distant and also Beinn Sgritheall, Ladhar Beinn, Meall Bhuidhe, Sgurr na Ciche. There were many more and perhaps I was also seeing the Black Cuillins of Skye. They were directly in the view west that I was looking toward. I stood for quite a while taking in the sublime view.

Now that was heaven. Back to reality and I had still ten miles to do, all downhill but ten miles all the same. I had already walked thirteen and with my feet less than 100% I was feeling the strain. As compensation I was walking into Glen Garry. And Glen Garry was sensational. So picturesque with a stunning green valley, sublime lochside and mountains galore near and far. For the first time too I could see the Nevis range with the north facing tops still covered with patches of snow. Yet another WOW moment and the viewpoint I was promised was every bit as good as the expectation. Glen Garry is an awesome beautiful place, I am lost for tributes of north west Scotland now, words are not enough.

I still had four miles to cover after the viewpoint in a gradual descent into Invergarry. Despite the wonderful views my feet were now telling me enough was enough. I had done 19 miles today and was cursing myself for pushing it to 23 but the thought of a hotel, food and drink, shower and a warm bed spurred me on down those agonising miles. It took me two hours to hobble four miles downhill so much was the pain. When I eventually arrived I was euphoric. I forced myself into the shower, hardly able to stand on bare feet. I cannot describe the agony nor the relief when done. But I rallied, had a lovely meal, hit my bed and considered the great day done. Determination certainly got me through it and the thought of easier days ahead including the two day walk through the Great Glen starting tomorrow. Like today it is 23 miles. Unlike today, I have two days to do it and reach Fort William. That thought cheers me.

The Photographs:

Brooding skies and glints of sunlight piercing the cloud make my start wonderfully atmospheric