Walking Englishman's 1000 Mile Walk

Photograph Gallery Stage 14 Loch na Leitreach to Invershiel, Saturday 4th June 2011

The Story:

I woke at 4.30am and tried to sleep another hour but the birdsong was too prolific. Sleeping wild in a tent forces you to wake with the rest of the local wildlife. I did manage to stay comatose while snuggled in my sleeping bag until 5.00am but then I was urged into action. Breakfast was prepared and done by 6.00am and then I diligently repacked the rucksack by quarter past then braved myself to face the millions of gnats outside the tent and take down the tent. I was not faced by the terrible biting midges but the gnats were irritating enough to don the facemask while I stowed the tent away. I wafted as I encamped and was happy to be on my way by half past six. What followed next I will never forget.

I began my days walking earlier than I had ever done before by following the Alt a Ghlomach upstream on a south course into a narrow gorge. I was soon high above the water as I was forced around the west edge of the gorge. Sometimes I was very exposed with the cliff face to my right and a deep chasm to my left. A slip off the path would be dire and so I made my way up carefully. The guide book had warned against taking this track in ice or snow and now I knew why. The rewards for the venture were stupendous though with incredible views into the abyss to my left with a racing river below me. As on my side the far side of the gorge was a steep practically vertical wall of rock. I cannot explain how awesome it is, you will really have to experience it yourself but I predict there is nothing like it in England, nor do j know of such a gorge in Wales. Then I had a moment of incredible sensation.

I came around another sharp pass and saw it, at distance, the Falls of Glomach. I could only see the top of the waterfall at first and then I did not appreciate the scale of the waterfall I was approaching. I still had more work to do. Frustratingly I was forced to descend to cross Alt na Loaidhre which was very scary as the path was precipitously exposed before ascending after the crossing the make the final ascent to the top of the Falls of Glomach. At the top I could only see the top half of the falls so I decided to leave my rucksack at the top and follow a steep path down to get a better view of the whole waterfall. What followed was magic.

I took the path down step by step to get a better view of the waterfall. Twice I stopped at viewing points to take a picture but I could not see the bottom if the falls so further I went. The third time I stopped to take a view was a moment I will never forget. I had to precariously shuffle to make an assumption that this was the place to be and then I laid myself flat and crawled to see over the edge. The noise was incredible and then I saw the full drop of the waterfall. I shook with trepidation and somehow managed to take a good look straight down the chasm. It was beyond my imagination and how I managed to take a movie and pictures I don’t know. I do know I clung to the camera tightly as I took the panorama sweeps. I sincerely hope they represent the scale of what I experienced. Then I took one more look, turned away and scampered back up the steep path to the top. I was exhausted by the experience and it was not yet 8.30am.

The rest of my days walking was an anticlimax and yet there were amazing views awaiting me. The first task was to ascend and cross the Bealach na Sroine which, when done, afforded me my first views of Kintail. Mountains of interest again captured my attention including Beinn Bhuidhe but most attention was dedicated to my steep descent to Kintail. it was a difficult descent and my feet ached after the hard exploits of previous days. For the first time I was really struggling and walking at a snails pace as I reached the valley floor. My hotel refuge could not come soon enough as I tramped the final two miles and when I saw the craft shop doubling as a post office and store at Shield Bridge I dived in for an iced lolly which I devoured quickly. Did I not mention it was a hot sunny day too?

Now I am in the Kintail Lodge Hotel. The iconic Five Sisters of Kintail are here too and I will pass by them and pay homage tomorrow. I am sure I will see other outstanding sights too but how can they compare with the Falls of Glomach?

In conclusion one thing is certain. Today I have had one of the most brilliant experiences of my life.

The Photographs:

A lovely morning in Glen Elchaig

The only time I had to use the midge net in Scotland. It came off as soon as I crossed Allt a Ghlomaich

Allt a Ghlomaich (note the falls do not use the h or the i in their name)

Loch na Leitreach

A sign!!! Not seen one of those before on this journey

A final look back into Glen Elchaig, my home for one night and a wonderful place I shall always remember

The challenge ahead, the path to the Falls of Glomach had to be followed, any detour left would have been final

It was a breathtaking walk to reach the Falls of Glomach

The path to the falls continues to be steep and challenging

Getting nearer, the anticipation is building

Top of the Falls of Glomach

Bottom of the Falls of Glomach

Full length of the Falls of Glomach

Very proud and very happy at the Falls of Glomach

br />High ground walking from Falls of Glomach to Bealach na Sroine

Bealach na Sroine

The view of Loch Duich and Lochaber from Bealach na Sroine

Footbridge giving me access into Dorusduain Wood

The track through Dorusduain Wood

Beautiful scene near Lienassie in Strath Croe

The view from Strath Croe

River Croe near Morvich

Old petrol pump outside garage at Carn-gorm

Loch Duich