Photograph Gallery Stage 12 Kinlochewe to Strathcarron
Photograph Gallery Stage 12 Kinlochewe to Strathcarron, Thursday 2nd June 2011
The Story:
I travelled 17 miles today, the weather was perfect, mainly overcast but with no rain at all which was the first time I stayed dry above the waist since I set off on my remarkable journey two weeks ago. I didn’t manage to stay dry below the waist though for this stage of the walk was difficult from the start with navigation a nightmare from the outset.
After a good breakfast of cereal and a superb deep bowl of Scots Porridge Oats I left Kinlochewe just before 9.00am. After my rest day I was in good spirits but the energy I had for the long 17 mile stage was soon sapped away. In previous reports I had mentioned the Cape Wrath Trail was not signposted or marked in any way. I have made my course plan following the guide notes from the book ‘North to the Cape’ and while it has proved invaluable in the whole planning exercise it is not a bona-fide route guide as one would expect for a designated trail guide. It makes recommendations and details a rough course but it does not use Ordnance Survey maps. Also, it for a on a south to north course. I am going north to south and that peculiarity presents its own problems. The start from Kinlochewe was the most erroneous of all.
I set off by leaving my hotel, crossing a road bridge and following a track into a field which would allow me to follow a course alongside the river on a course due south, in line with the book description taking me in the direction of a forest with tracks giving me eventual access to Carn Dhomhnull ahic a Ghobba. The book said negotiating this section was nigh on impossible due to fallen trees. That was an understatement for the track was none existent. First I trudged through two sodden fields and then had to scale a steep bank beside a deer fence which I had to use to haul me up. Then I came to a stream which was in torrent after the incessant rain of recent weeks which I had to wade across with the help of a fallen birch tree. Then finding any semblance of a track was futile. I knew I was in the right place because of my GPS but I was going around in circles like a moth to a lightbulb trying to manage a decent course to the forest track the guide book and the OS map promised. More deer fences forced my hand to deviate slightly off course and then splash I went knee deep into quagmire. I had my Hounds of the Baskervilles moment in a flash, the quicksand would have me after all but luckily I reacted quickly and dragged myself out. I crossed the bog clinging on to the deer fence and then followed the deer fence further up to survey the land. Then I realised I was at the forest, only then realising there wasn’t a tree in sight. They had all been felled some time ago! I found a track in the carnage, followed it and only then did I find the access to the hill I was seeking. I had done about one mile of my seventeen. It had taken nearly two strength sapping hours.
I was relieved to be on clear moor and although the going was wet underfoot I accelerated to catch up time. Soon I came to another forest, this one with its trees intact and I followed the right track through it to Torran Cuillin. I was relieved to be there at last, four miles done in just over three hours now. It was a lovely spot to dwell in for a while but I didn’t dwell too long for I still had a long way to go. It was after 12 noon when I passed Loch Coulin but I decided to delay lunch until later in the afternoon.
My next challenge was to wade across River Coulin which was done very gingerly. At one point the water was well above my knees but with utmost care I made it over without toppling over. The Cape Wrath Trail involves many stream, full and river crossings by design. Don’t expect bridges for you will be disappointed. All part of the challenge.
The next stage of my walk was easy along a good vehicle track to Achnashellach. I paced four miles along the track speedily but by the time I reached Achnashellach Station I was ready for my dinner. The station is a demand only stop with a little waiting booth. The booth served as a good kitchen!
On the descent to Achnashellach I was privileged with fantastic views of the Carron valley. Clouds that had been low all day were rising and the widespread views were sublime. Tomorrows hills look spectacular.
In the meantime I had a final six mile haul to Strathcarron and the first four were along the valley road. Views to the mountains of the west were brilliant though and the attractive valley drew me on too. The last two miles were lovely, through woodland and beside the fast flowing River Carron. Then I was in Strathcarron and home for the night. The stage was reasonable with good views, interesting parts and a transition from Torrid mountains to Knoydart mountains. I look forward to them. As for this stage I would surely have enjoyed it more had it not been for the horrendous start.
The Photographs:
Kinlochewe Hotel
Majestic Beinn Eighe
Where has the track gone? Where was it in the first place?
Birchwood and scrub was everywhere
I used this deer fence and improvised crossing to ford Allt an Domhain. With no such help on the next one Allt a Ghiuthais I sunk to my bottom
The forest that wasn’t one any more
Sgurr Dubh
I don’t believe it, another walker? After days of not seeing a soul I was heartened to see this Dutchman cooking his breakfast on the trail. We chatted for a while before I continued on
Is that a track? Blimey!
A decent track at last over Mam a Ghiubhais
The track disappeared on my descent from Mam a Ghiubhais, more hard work
Loch Coulin
After what had gone before I enjoyed walking beside the River Coulin, not realising I should have crossed it earlier
Having missed the track ford I crossed the River Coulin here
Small waterfall near Leathad Doire Beithe
The views from Coulin Pass
Approaching forest at Coulin Pass
Loch Carron. I wasn’t that close yet, it was a zoom in shot from height seven miles away
Achnashellach Station – call for trains by demand here
Self catering at Achnashellach Station – it was a wonderful meal!
Rhododendrons at Achnashellach
Achnashellach Lodge
Loch Dughaill
The roadside walk by Loch Dughaill was tempered by lovely mountain views
Lochan and mountain near Strathcarron
The River Carron
I was relieved to reach the Strathcarron Hotel